Book Review
by Tom Tarapacki
Backroads & Byways of Upstate New York: Drives, Day Trips, and Weekend Excursions; Countryman Press; 360 pages by Christine Smyczynski
There’s a lot of New York State between Buffalo and New York City, and Christine Smyczynski sure knows her way around it. Whether it’s the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, the historic estates of the Hudson Valley, Boldt Castle in Thousand Islands, or the Chautauqua Institution, this book takes you to some memorable sites in the state. It provides updated, practical information that will be invaluable in your travel through the wonders of Upstate New York. Some of the locations are very well known, while others you may be hearing about for the first time. Some are easy to find, while others are well off the beaten path.
This well-organized and updated book is broken down into 20 road trips driving through specific geographic areas. Each one begins with a summary that includes estimated lengths, estimated time of travel, highlights and how to get there. That is followed by details and photographs of the routes.
For example, the first one is Route 104: The Cobblestone Trail, which guides you from Lewiston to Rochester. Artpark, Our Lady of the Fatima Shrine, local vineyards and wine trails, markets, and the like are highlighted. You get specific recommendations on lodgings, attractions, shopping, complete with addresses and phone numbers. You can choose to traverse the entire route, or simply pick out certain attractions you’d like to visit.
One of my favorite routes in the book is the Letchworth Region. It includes, of course, the magnificent Letchworth State Park. Among the highlights there, along with the waterfalls and other natural features, are the Glen Iris Inn and its restaurant, Caroline’s. The park also boasts the outstanding Humphrey Nature Center and the Letchworth Museum. The book includes some of the attractions in the communities surrounding the park.
A couple of small but interesting sites in Mount Morris are the Pantry Mouse Tea House and Wendy’s Pantry, which sells old-fashioned candies, spices and gourmet foods. There are some I haven’t visited but sound interesting: The Abbey of the Genesee and the National Warplane Museum.
There are a lot of lesser-known gems. Many people have visited the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, but many are unaware of the nearby Glimmerglass State Park. The 800-acre park is a great place to hike, and includes Hyde Hall, a National Historic Landmark from the early 1800s that is one of the finest examples of a Neoclassical country house.
Another good route is Western New York’s Amish Community. It includes some hard-to-find information about the unique merchants. More than that, it delves into the origins and philosophy of this religious group, explaining why the Amish don’t ride in cars or use telephones. It also includes some valuable insights about the customs and practices of the Amish community that outsiders should be aware of. The author provides information on how to arrange for a personalized tour of the shops, just in case you feel uncomfortable visiting them on your own.
There are many pictures and maps included. Unlike some books of this kind, this one includes a detailed index. That makes it very easy to quickly look up a specific location.
Christine Smyczynski is a native Western New Yorker who has written hundreds of articles about the region and New York State. She has been published in many local, regional and national publications, including The Buffalo News, Forever Young Magazine, Western New York Family, Longweekends, and many others. She has written five books, all pertaining to New York State travel, including Explorer's Guide to Buffalo & Niagara Falls. She lives in the Buffalo area with her husband.
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